Tuesday, 1 February On the way to South Africa; flying withVirgin Airlines

I forgave Virgin Blue the cancellation of my flight. The seats were comfortable, the food really good and if I hadn't got a cold which made use lots of tissues I would have enjoyed myself. How come that all their stewardesses are blond and young? The dark and more mature are relegated to the less exalted jobs on the ground. Arrival in Johannesburg. I am safe in the comfortable hotel with plenty of tissues and aspirin. The next day though I feel better and ready to explore. Around the hotel there are shops, cinemas, eating places, even a small museum on the history of apartheid. There is plenty to keep me entertained for a day or two. Pity I don't gamble, there is also a mini Las Vegas.

This is the first time I am in a a country where the majority of the population is black. I am trying not to stare but it is difficult; most people are interesting and many, especially women -stunning. They have a special style, a manner of dress and grooming which sets off characteristic features; twisted hairdos enhance their special beauty and plain but smart clothes set off model type bodies.

Friday, February 4; Pilgrim's Progress in South Africa

First trial:

I am supposed to fly to Livingstone, in Zambia, to see the Victoria Falls. I have a ticket and I think that if I manage to get to the airport on time I can relax, window shop, etc. I don't expect any problems so with my boarding pass in hand, I make my way to Gate 23 as instructed and wait. Fifteen minutes before the flight though I notice that the Gate is empty. "Where are the passengers?" I ask. "The Gate has been changed, your flight leaves from Gate 6, you should have heard the announcement." I would like to say that the announcements were impossible to understand except for requests not to leave the luggage unattended but I am too much in a hurry to get to the right Gate. Gate 6 though is also empty. Have I missed my flight? I manage to find an airoirt employee who tells me that Gate 6 is now Gate 1. Since it was just about departure time and since I didn't know where Gate 1 is I panicked; what shall I do if-since-I missed my flight? Can I get another flight? If I can't. how do I contact the travel agency in Pretoria? At that moment - he must have seen my despair- a tall, very dark angel in the shape of an aiport employee appeared. He grabbed my hand luggage and rushed me to Gate 1 where I found the the flight had 45 minutes delay. I 'thanked' him and he accepted my thanks with a low bow.

Second Trial

The short flight to Livingstone, Zambia, was quite pleasant. I watched the views from my window seat. On arrival followed the queue to passport control, presented my passport and was asked for 50 $US . I was prepared for this and offered my card. "No, it must be cash." "There is a Barclay Bank around the corner." The bank does not let me withdraw cash. Now what? Who can I contact, in Zambia? Is this truly happening? People look at me with pity when another angel, also tall and very dark appears. "I am the driver sent to take you to the hotel. I'll try to help. " I am too numbed to think but fortunately I don't have long to wait before he comes back to tell me that the Zambian authorities have taken pity on my plight and have waved the cash payment. I 'thanked' him gratefully. Who said that angels must have wings?

The Reward; ParadiseZambezi Sun is not just a hotel; it is a resort with several buildings in a huge national park with native animals raming free. There are restaurants, cafes, shops and lots of beautiful smiling people eager to attend to your wishes. The Victoria falls are at the gate. After my 'trials' I feel I am in Paradise and wish to stay here for ever. Pity we are here only for 2 nights.

Victoria Falls.

They are here, just outside the park. Passing a herd of zebras - instructed not to disturb them- I walk through a gate, have my name and time of exit noted, and I am at the Falls. They are so powerful that I get soaked to the skin though I am miles away. The cascades fall down the mountain with such force that they make a constant rainbow. These are not so widespread as Iguazu but more powerful and cleaner, white through and through.

From Johannesburg via Panorama route through Gauteng province

Monday, 7 February 2011

It is a long drive from Johannesburg to our lodge near Kruger park but the road is a touristic attraction- the Panorama Route. It is indeed - the road follows mountains and valleys with lots of waterfalls. We are often called out of the car (a nice surprise; we are only a pleasant group of five) to admire a view between rocky mountains, cascades, wooden hills with strange shapes. This is the domain of the first Dutch pioneers; hence the names: the three Rundavels.

We climb over rocks, cross winding streams , take photos and feel that we get to know the real South Africa.

We look forward to Kruger park. In the meantime we enjoy our stay at Hongonyi Game Lodge.

We share our dinner with Priscilla, the resident Wildlife, a pet porcupine.

Tuesday, 8 February; Kruger park

Some are quite small, but interesting: a chameleon

Impala

One of the Big Five: the buffalo

This is a true animal Kingdom, where the animals reign supreme. Humans are tolerated as long as they don't stand up in their cars, talk or move. They can breathe, and take pictures. The reward is the spectacle of fearless animals. We, tourists, are here only for a short visit but locals can enjoy the park for extended stays; I can imagine the delight of children spending their holidays in a hut placed in the middle of the park, listening to animals sounds and watching them , learning to follow theur traces...

The park is not only huge but extending over 3 countries South Africa, Mozambique abd Zimbabwe. As grassland changes to to jungle and forest one meets different animals. My favourites are the impalas and I find it hard to accept that they are the food of the meat eaters, and even less that they are killed for their lovely furs.

Limpopo province; Thornybush private lodge

Wednesday, 9 February, 2011

We are going to visit the Hoedspruit Endangered Species centre and see little cheetahs and wild dogs. I don't care about the wild dogs but i thought we might play with baby cheetahs. This is the closest we come to them:

We are taken in a jeep, over unmade roads deep into the African bush to a very luxurious resort. The dwellings are called Huts, but the only thing they have in common with the african huts is the name. These are very luxurious dwellings tastefully designed and decorated in a style inspired by the african native culture. There are the tribal masks on the walls, animal prints and earthy colours. I feel I could enjoy myself here even if I don't get to see lions and such.

Anyway there is a little monkey with a baby on its back coming to investigate as I move in. Pity she runs away before I can take her picture. But there are other animals around...

Limpopo province; Thornybush private lodge. Thursday, 10 February, 2011 Today we are getting to see Big Five (or some of them). The search is quite dramatic; the team of driver and spotter work together following 'spoor 'and communicating with other teams via mobile phones. It is admirable how the rangers have succeeded in training the wild animals to tolerate the presence of humans; the jeep gets close to the animals who ignore us and carry on sleeping, eating, caring for their young or licking each other.

Table Mountain an Blomberg Beach

Saturday, 12 February, 2011

The highlight of today is the table Mountain Aerial cableway and the drive which takes us there. It is magnificent, beyond the capacity of my digital camera. We have to commit the views to memory.

A weak approximation of the view.

Cape Town, Table Mountain

Saturday, 12 February, 2011

Bliss. I am collected from the airport. On the way to the hotel i see why the town is renowned for its beauty. There are the surrounding maontains and the sea facing it. We are taken for a walk to the waterfront. We only need to cross the street and we are ther- there is the port with ships, a moving bridge, bright shops and eateries - I could be in Sydney or any other port but for the people. They are a real rainbow in appearance and oh so lively. There are bands of musicians taking turns to entertain us.

We are lucky; we even see a dolphin.

I would have like d to stay longer but tourinsts must be shown around the city. So we are taken around the town see the Old Fort from the Boer war, the municipal offices, the opera, the open air market with sickly souvenirs. The old Malay quarter is lovely though. These are houses built for indentured workers now being renovated. They remind me of the Rio de Janeiro houses.

I would ha liked to stay longer but tourists must be shown around the main city. So we see the Old Fort (historical, dating from the Boer wars), the municipal offices, the opera, the open air market sith sickly souvenirs. I am glad that the hotel is opposite the waterfron so i can come back. The Malay quarter with its colourful houses is worth seeing. These are old houses of indentured workers now being renovated. They remind me of the Rio de Janeiro houses, but less colourful.

Cape of Good Hope

Sunday, February 13, 2011

As we drive along the mountain roads full of abrupt serpentinesI admire the talent and expertise of the engineers who built these roads. They are safe enough for people to built their homes overlooking and abyss. There is even a high school . I wonder how could the students concentrate on their work while faced with what Francis Drake described as "the most beautiful

Cape in the whole circumferance of the globe."

"

The visit to the penguin colony offers a perfect contrast to the majesty of the Cape. The birds are -of course- adorable as they sit on the stony beach. They are very still as if posing for photographs.

We then visit a -so called- botanical gardens; it is more like a park, with a mountain in the background and plants on steep levels, which we are invited to climb. This is a strenous tour; I try to close my eyes and rest on the way back but the driver shakes me to wake me up . Really!

Cape Point tour

The Huguenot monument

Monday, 14 February,2011

I didn't know that Huguenots have settled in South Africa. Apparently they came here from Holland, where they first took refuge from the French persecutions. They founded a town, Franschoek, with white washed houses and cool green well kept gardens and introduced French words and languistic structures to Afrikaans. Some place names are French,with the e accents somewhat askew.There is a monument celebrating their contribution to the development of the country, their industry and high moral standards. They were not abstinent, though. They developed a thriving wine industry. Wee are invited to taste the wine an shown around wineries. Coming from Australia I have little to learn in this area and as for the wine...maybe I am not a connaisseur. There are some lovely old sculpted wine casks though.

Garden Route

Tuesday, 15 February

This is Du Toit's Kloof Mountain Pass, one of the longest tunnels in the world. We are lucky with the weather and can admire the views in full sunshine. The Cango caves provide a welcome respite from the heat. Not very different from the Romanian and Australian caves, but they seem to be more roomy.

Western Cape province-Knysna-garden route

Wednesday, 16 February. 2011
We are tken to an ostrich farm. I don't know why; the birds are horrible, look bedraggled and I could not be persuaded to taste their meat nor admire-let alone buy- the handbags made from their skin. They had their uses though, In 1920 their feathers were fashionable., the 'marabous'. The simple folk who farmed them made a fortune which they used to build oppulent houses in Victorian style. We stayed in one , La Plume. Magnificent

Knysna, Monkeyland

Thursday, 17 February, 2011

Monkeyland. When we arrived at Knysna we were warned that mondeys like to climb into the rooms and help themselves to sugar packets, so we should keep doors and windows closed. I was disappointed not to see any. "You will see plenty at Monkeyland"said Brian. We certainly did. Big, smaller than a cat, black and white, brown, some a funny yellow....these are monkeys originally kept as pets. As they grow up though they reassert their wild habits and their owners want to get rid of them. The lucky ones end up in Monkeyland where they are retrained to live in the wild. We walk around them, taking pictures. They don't seem to mind, but we are not allowed to touch them. Children are offered cats instead.

The forest os lovely, with tall trees and the long swinging Pul Sauer bridge which reminds me of the Capillano bridge in Vancouver.

Friday, 18 February

We are at cape l'Agulhas, the souernmost part of the continent, the official place where the Indian and the atlantic oceans mix their waters. Named so by the Portuguese because the compass needle kept shifting. We watch the rough and rocky sea, read the signs and pose for the traditional phot marking the end of the tour.