Morocco ,after the wedding

Thursday,14November,2013

This was a fairy take wedding.  It was nighttime, in a huge garden with a lake surrounding an elegant hall designed to host comfortably hundreds. And  there were at least 400 hundred guests who came ,some, from over the world. Ei navy and Teddy were married in a huppah overlooking the lake and nobody was left unmoved.  There was, of course, food and drink in abundance and dancing till dawn when we had to leave in order to catch the plane to Morocco.



Friday, 16 November,2013
We are in our hotel in Casablanca. The weather is fine and we take advantage of the free day to see the huge Hassan mosque and follow the Lonely Planet walking tour of the town. We are supposed to admire the French architecture. Evidently the locals haven,t because the buildings are sorely neglected. It is a pleasant walk though, we have ice cream sitting outside a cafe, as in Paris, and  discover a bookshop which sells French books.

Saturday, 17 November, 2013
Today the tour starts in earnest. So does the rain. It is unbelievably cold and though we try to ignore. The weather in our admiration of Meknes , there is plenty to admire, the palace with colorful mosaics, the mosque and....the stables, which used to house hundreds of horses.  Pity we can t admire the view of the city from the terrace, the wind and the rain chance us away.
The afternoon is spent visiting Volubilis, the ruins of a roman settlement of over 15,000. It reminds of Pompeii; there  are the mosaics from the elegant houses, shop signs, the forum and the temple.



Sunday, 18 November, 2013
Fez, in a very elegant hotel. As an introduction to the visit of the ancient Jewish quarter ourguide informs us that he is student of ancient Arab language and has written a thesis comparing the Arab and Hebrew languages.
The best part is a visit to the ancient quarter of the city of Fez, apparently the oldest, existing, city of the world. We follow him through narrow passages, rabbit warren of dwellings, and marvel . A baker lets us have a glimpse of his bread baking .
And of course, we visit the ceramic factory (where we resist buying ), and a tannery where Jennifer buys a really nice blue bag.
We feel that Gadventure is a good travel company.

Monday, 19 November, 2013
This is a very long drive though the mountains. The view is reminiscing of Norway. It is bizarre though, that we are heading for  Sahara.


Tuesday, 20 November,2013
Our hotel is very picturesque with hand woven coverings and camels in the courtyard. Jennifer goes for a camel ride, which she enjoys, she says.

Wednesday, 21 November, 2013
This is the real desert. We experiencing it as we are waken at dawn and taken to the sand dunes to seethe sunrise. I didn't expect walking on the sand to be so hard. The sunrise was spectacular and worth the effort.




In the afternoon we went for a pleasant, leisurely walk in an oasis.
The walk through the 'oasis' was fun.  Our guide, a berber clad in a brown monk habit gave us a very intelligent  overview of the tribal agricultural system.
The day was not over yet. We drove through one of the most spectacular range of mountains . These are the anti Atlas Mountains, which separate Sahara from the high Atlas. These are incredibly sheer, bold rocks with a magnificent pink colour.  The houses built over these mountains appear to grow naturally out of the rocks.
Our hotel is called Timbuktu and is inspired by the old caravans crossing the desert.

Thursday, 22 November, 2013
While we were travelling I admired the local houses. Their colour blends in with the mountains  so well that it looks as if they are growing out of stone.  They must be solid yet they look like sandcastle. Today we had the chance to visit one. The interior reflects the traditional Muslim family where men and women lead separate lives yet very confusing to the western eye. There  is a note saying that the palace was built freely, without a plan . This is obvious,but it must have been such fun for children playing hide and seek.. We admire the decorated walls, the narrow windows, the views, and take photos.
Our hotel, Berber Palace ,is well named. It offers not a room, but an elegant suite in  a huge, we'll cared for garden. Pity we spend only one night here.
What follows is drive in the Atlas  mountains designed with  the steepest  and most abrupt serpentines. I admire the views and regret that I cannot take a photo of the goats which seem to hang on the face of the rocks.



















Sunday, 18 November,2013

Fez, in a very elegant hotel

Tuesday, 1 February On the way to South Africa; flying withVirgin Airlines

I forgave Virgin Blue the cancellation of my flight. The seats were comfortable, the food really good and if I hadn't got a cold which made use lots of tissues I would have enjoyed myself. How come that all their stewardesses are blond and young? The dark and more mature are relegated to the less exalted jobs on the ground. Arrival in Johannesburg. I am safe in the comfortable hotel with plenty of tissues and aspirin. The next day though I feel better and ready to explore. Around the hotel there are shops, cinemas, eating places, even a small museum on the history of apartheid. There is plenty to keep me entertained for a day or two. Pity I don't gamble, there is also a mini Las Vegas.

This is the first time I am in a a country where the majority of the population is black. I am trying not to stare but it is difficult; most people are interesting and many, especially women -stunning. They have a special style, a manner of dress and grooming which sets off characteristic features; twisted hairdos enhance their special beauty and plain but smart clothes set off model type bodies.

Friday, February 4; Pilgrim's Progress in South Africa

First trial:

I am supposed to fly to Livingstone, in Zambia, to see the Victoria Falls. I have a ticket and I think that if I manage to get to the airport on time I can relax, window shop, etc. I don't expect any problems so with my boarding pass in hand, I make my way to Gate 23 as instructed and wait. Fifteen minutes before the flight though I notice that the Gate is empty. "Where are the passengers?" I ask. "The Gate has been changed, your flight leaves from Gate 6, you should have heard the announcement." I would like to say that the announcements were impossible to understand except for requests not to leave the luggage unattended but I am too much in a hurry to get to the right Gate. Gate 6 though is also empty. Have I missed my flight? I manage to find an airoirt employee who tells me that Gate 6 is now Gate 1. Since it was just about departure time and since I didn't know where Gate 1 is I panicked; what shall I do if-since-I missed my flight? Can I get another flight? If I can't. how do I contact the travel agency in Pretoria? At that moment - he must have seen my despair- a tall, very dark angel in the shape of an aiport employee appeared. He grabbed my hand luggage and rushed me to Gate 1 where I found the the flight had 45 minutes delay. I 'thanked' him and he accepted my thanks with a low bow.

Second Trial

The short flight to Livingstone, Zambia, was quite pleasant. I watched the views from my window seat. On arrival followed the queue to passport control, presented my passport and was asked for 50 $US . I was prepared for this and offered my card. "No, it must be cash." "There is a Barclay Bank around the corner." The bank does not let me withdraw cash. Now what? Who can I contact, in Zambia? Is this truly happening? People look at me with pity when another angel, also tall and very dark appears. "I am the driver sent to take you to the hotel. I'll try to help. " I am too numbed to think but fortunately I don't have long to wait before he comes back to tell me that the Zambian authorities have taken pity on my plight and have waved the cash payment. I 'thanked' him gratefully. Who said that angels must have wings?

The Reward; ParadiseZambezi Sun is not just a hotel; it is a resort with several buildings in a huge national park with native animals raming free. There are restaurants, cafes, shops and lots of beautiful smiling people eager to attend to your wishes. The Victoria falls are at the gate. After my 'trials' I feel I am in Paradise and wish to stay here for ever. Pity we are here only for 2 nights.

Victoria Falls.

They are here, just outside the park. Passing a herd of zebras - instructed not to disturb them- I walk through a gate, have my name and time of exit noted, and I am at the Falls. They are so powerful that I get soaked to the skin though I am miles away. The cascades fall down the mountain with such force that they make a constant rainbow. These are not so widespread as Iguazu but more powerful and cleaner, white through and through.

From Johannesburg via Panorama route through Gauteng province

Monday, 7 February 2011

It is a long drive from Johannesburg to our lodge near Kruger park but the road is a touristic attraction- the Panorama Route. It is indeed - the road follows mountains and valleys with lots of waterfalls. We are often called out of the car (a nice surprise; we are only a pleasant group of five) to admire a view between rocky mountains, cascades, wooden hills with strange shapes. This is the domain of the first Dutch pioneers; hence the names: the three Rundavels.

We climb over rocks, cross winding streams , take photos and feel that we get to know the real South Africa.

We look forward to Kruger park. In the meantime we enjoy our stay at Hongonyi Game Lodge.

We share our dinner with Priscilla, the resident Wildlife, a pet porcupine.

Tuesday, 8 February; Kruger park

Some are quite small, but interesting: a chameleon

Impala

One of the Big Five: the buffalo

This is a true animal Kingdom, where the animals reign supreme. Humans are tolerated as long as they don't stand up in their cars, talk or move. They can breathe, and take pictures. The reward is the spectacle of fearless animals. We, tourists, are here only for a short visit but locals can enjoy the park for extended stays; I can imagine the delight of children spending their holidays in a hut placed in the middle of the park, listening to animals sounds and watching them , learning to follow theur traces...

The park is not only huge but extending over 3 countries South Africa, Mozambique abd Zimbabwe. As grassland changes to to jungle and forest one meets different animals. My favourites are the impalas and I find it hard to accept that they are the food of the meat eaters, and even less that they are killed for their lovely furs.

Limpopo province; Thornybush private lodge

Wednesday, 9 February, 2011

We are going to visit the Hoedspruit Endangered Species centre and see little cheetahs and wild dogs. I don't care about the wild dogs but i thought we might play with baby cheetahs. This is the closest we come to them:

We are taken in a jeep, over unmade roads deep into the African bush to a very luxurious resort. The dwellings are called Huts, but the only thing they have in common with the african huts is the name. These are very luxurious dwellings tastefully designed and decorated in a style inspired by the african native culture. There are the tribal masks on the walls, animal prints and earthy colours. I feel I could enjoy myself here even if I don't get to see lions and such.

Anyway there is a little monkey with a baby on its back coming to investigate as I move in. Pity she runs away before I can take her picture. But there are other animals around...

Limpopo province; Thornybush private lodge. Thursday, 10 February, 2011 Today we are getting to see Big Five (or some of them). The search is quite dramatic; the team of driver and spotter work together following 'spoor 'and communicating with other teams via mobile phones. It is admirable how the rangers have succeeded in training the wild animals to tolerate the presence of humans; the jeep gets close to the animals who ignore us and carry on sleeping, eating, caring for their young or licking each other.